Yes, John Galliano has returned to the runway after a four-year absence. In the shadow of the recent events in Paris, Galliano’s timing, although not his own, was certainly dashed with irony given his exile after his anti-semitic remarks. Maison Martin Margiela‘s new chief designer has had everyone speculating for months if he was a “good fit”. Designers, Jasper Conran, Alber Elbaz, Manolo Blahnik, photogs Paolo Roversi, Tim Walker, Nick Knight and Craig McDean, along with the world’s fashion press (and of course, Kate Moss) came out to see what John had cooked up. I’ve seen the all the pictures from the runway, and I’m impressed but not sure what to think overall. I’ll leave it to Vogue‘s venerable Suzy Menkes to tell you what SHE thinks, anyway;
“With exquisite attention to detail, wild splashes of scarlet and intense decoration set against pure tailoring, John Galliano came back to the runway.
The brilliant designer, disgraced by anti-semitic remarks, stepped out for a micro-second in a white surgical coat at the end of his show for Maison Margiela, to generous applause for the models parading to the music of Hey, Big Spender – maybe a touch of irony at this first couture showing of the new season.
There was something raw and animalistic about an outfit where 3D eyes glowed at the waist or a breastpiece which looked like the sparking remnants from a queen’s bottom drawer. A crown and skeletal teeth topped that outfit.
Without measuring how much of this show was designed as Galliano and how much for the Maison Margiela label, both were definitely present.
“I’ve never seen anything like this in my life – every outfit tells a story and we have been working for six months – so much time on each one,” said Renzo Rosso of Diesel, whose aptly named Only the Brave company is behind Maison Margiela, as well as Marni and Viktor & Rolf.
Margiela’s talent was never snuffed out – he just stepped away from the company after Renzo Rosso had bought it and the designer felt that he had nothing more to say.
Galliano may not have so much new to say either. But what he showed in London was a powerful mix of beauty, low-level provocation and the skills he has learned over the years.
In an era when fashion’s high tide is ebbing, as a wave of dull normality rolls forward, the return of John Galliano to the catwalk must be welcomed by anyone who loves the glory of the extraordinary.”
(via Vogue UK)