Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry made history last Wednesday with his black fitted jacket, red silk ball skirt, and golden dove brooch worn by Lady Gaga to sing the national anthem at the inauguration of President Joe Biden.
Native Texan, Roseberry (who happens to be a fox, if you ask me) told Vogue,
“I’m shaken to the core, to be honest.
It was such an honor.
I remember when Thom [Browne] dressed Michelle Obama for the second inauguration [Roseberry worked for Browne]. Whenever anybody wrote about him afterward—for years—it was the opening line. For a house like Schiaparelli, dressing Gaga for the inauguration speaks to capturing the moment.
That’s what I’m trying to do with all of our celebrity moments: to nail the zeitgeist.”
But the zeitgeist for 2020 is “The Year Without Red Carpets”. Roseberry said,
“Ever since I came back from lockdown, there’s been a shift for me mentally here—a focus and confidence that’s come from my relationship to my own process and to the atelier.
It’s just something that’s not as polite as couture typically tends to be.”
The House of Schiaparelli
A little break here for some fashion HerStory, if you are not familiar with Elsa Schiaparelli. She was a contemporary of Coco Chanel who was her greatest rival and is regarded as one of the most unique figures in fashion. Her designs were heavily influenced by the Surrealists, like her collaborators Dalí and Cocteau. Her work really WAS, to use the clichéd phrase, “wearable art”. So the giant gold bird brooch is TOTALLY in keeping with the house, as are Roseberry’s other reinterpretations of her work (*see below.)
But as radical an artist as Schiaparelli was, she didn’t morph with the times and the changing tastes in fashion and her couture house closed in 1954. She died in 1973.
Roseberry’s SS21 Schiaparelli Look Book starts off with this super-heroine bustier in with a giant bow in Schiaparelli’s signature color, shocking pink.
The molded bustiers are modeled on a pair of mannequins, which Elsa kept in her salon. The originals now stand in Roseberry’s workroom as his homage to her and the house she created.
“If you want to look like a cupcake, you can go somewhere else.
I started thinking, is there something about couture that’s sort of misogynistic, that demands or expects that a woman wants to look hyper-feminine and dainty and Bridgerton adjacent?
It’s not about being a man at all, it’s about being a jacked woman.”
Check out his jacked SS21 collection featuring a stretch-fabric dress knitted with more than 200,000 Swarovski crystals, a black column dress with folded sleeves you can just SEE walking down the red carpet. Whenever they return.
We all wonder how women will dress when they do and Roseberry’s radical vision of heroic female strength sure is an exciting starting point.
If you want to know more about Elsa Schiaparelli, Google away –or you can read her geniously-titled autobiography, Shocking Life.
(Photos, Schiaparelli; via Vogue)